3.12 - TCHOTCHKE’S, CEMETERIO Y CASA DEL TIA

Today's Start was just a bit slow
It wasTchotchke’s then Cemeteries and so

'though they searched round and round

Not one Tio was found

So to Tia’s house they did go

Feeling more confident  that he may still avoid Nantucket, our journalista plods on. [But Earl... maybe you should keep workin' on it]

An early rise did nothing for getting “Expedition Montalvo” on the road any faster, as one by one they ambled down for coffee and stretches.  The plan of the day was:
find a little flea market around the corner where Jake had spotted a painting he wanted, look for some tchotchke’s to take home, then head to the cemetery to look for Tio Luis’ tomb and anyone else they could find, then go to Tia’s old house in Vedado Central, and then… wellllll that’s as far as the plan got, the rest was gonna get played by ear.  Oh… and it had been decided the night before after the Wine-Khaki disaster, that they [Chucky] would cook at  home tonight.

Tia, Other “CUZ” and Doug slept in so the “Tchotchke Gang of 5” headed to the Flea market ‘round the corner.  Not really much, maybe about a dozen stalls, if you could call scattered tables and umbrellas stalls, and the pickings pretty much repeats from one to the next.  Lots of wood carvings, automatic cigarette and toothpick dispensers, musical instruments, leather work etc.  Jake showed Chucky the one piece of a triptych [three panel painting] he wanted.  Yesterday the vendor had told Jake $35cuc.  Soooo, Chucky the “Haggle Specialist” made quick work of the vendor and Jake went home with a "$25cuc - artist signed" treasure.  The Cuban Chic spotted a couple of “Que Cute’s”, “CUZ”  picked up some leather for her Tennis tribe and they headed back to 55 linea to pick up Doug for a walk along the Malecon.

Stops here and there along the way for pictures and a visit to the Memorial to the Battle ship Maine, sunk in La Habana harbor in 1898 sparking the Spanish American War.  Then they spotted an interesting sight down the way which turned out to be a memorial to Nagasaki victims, as well local and other international heroes and another Marti Statue.

Back to 55 Linea for Tia and Other “CUZ” while Chucky hopped over to Trocadero [OK drove] to get Prima and they were off on the next adventure minus Jake and Jessie who have decided to sit this one out… Smart boys. Next stop - The Bone Yard.

Trivia Timeà Dedicated in 1876, Necropolis De Cristobal Colon is to Havana what Pere-Lachaise is to Paris. Some of the headstones and ornamental sculptures are true works of art. Among the over 800,000 people buried perhaps the most visited grave is that of Amelia Goire de la Hoz, a lady of high society, now known as "La Milagrosa" [The Miracle].  At age 23, Doña Amelia died during childbirth in 1903. Her child also died and Amelia was buried with her dead child placed at her feet. According to legend, when the grave was opened some time afterwards the child was in his mothers arms. Her desperate husband, José Vicente Adot, went to the cemetery every afternoon and tapped the gravestone with the bronze knocker screaming: Wake up Amelia! Wake up Amelia! He made this ritual for 17 years until he died.  Since ancient times
hundreds of people go to La Milagrosa to ask favors for their children or love affairs, including tapping with the knockers as Amelia's husband did.  Visitors leave walking backwards to avoid turning their backs to the white statue of Amelia.

Back to the expedition… After meeting “Another Cuz of Cuba”, Prima's Sobrina [Niece] Odalys, Wife of Osvaldo and her Daughter llana, the growing entourage strolled through several kilometers of cemetery getting lots of neat pictures, without knocking on any tombs.  Unfortunately, our stalwart crew with Prima, Odalys and Tia in the lead managed to find… nobody.  Well they did find Melba [Prima’s Mother] but no one had a map, or real idea of where anyone else was planted including the illusive Tio Luis [whoever that was] so they ambled along 'til someone said, "enough Already... Lets Eat!" [but that would have to wait]

Since the entrance of the Cemetario was One way IN, a long circuitous route alllllll the waaaaaaay aroooouuund the perimeter of the cemetario got them to the exit and headed for the one spot they DID know “Where it’s At” - Tia’s old house in Vedado - the next stop on today’s trek, just west of Avenida Paseo and South of Avenida 23… wellll kinda around there... somewhere....

As we eventually approached the old house the emotion in the back seat got REAL heavy and a gasp was heard as Tia spotted it.  A short walk down a narrow path past the decaying building on the street led to the place where “CUZ” {Chelita} and Other “CUZ” {Grisele} last lived with Tia Chela and Tio Octavio Portuondo, on the 2^nd floor...of a little Casita...in the Suburb of Vedado...in La Habana, Cuba.  Yeah...a bunch of misty eyes here -as many pics are snapped of the family ascending those long forgotten stairs for the first time in over 50 years & a quick tour of the old hacienda given by a gracious current owner.

 Coming away from the old house, the girls spot the primary school down the street where they first learned their "Ahhh Beee Ceee’s" and just had to finagle an entrance for pics & chat with the staff.

Headed back to the car, we found this totally Modern Rehab across the street from Tia's house.  Such a stark contrast in the decaying neighborhood.

Trivia & Pics made this a tad long so we'll pick up on an interesting lunch and the rest of the day, along with the hunt for the Perfect Ingredients for an Italian Fiesta, at Casa de Maria La China. in the next NOWAT - from the Isle with more statues of Jose Marti than a Botanica on Calle Ocho in Miami.

Spaghetti???  Really!?!  It’s Cuba fer Gawd’s Sake!!!  

HASTA LUEGO,

Uncle Chuck & The Gettin’ jest a Tad Bit Hungry

Cuban Lady

Searchin’ for Puerco Asado, Platanos Maduros, and a Bucanero